Monterey, a stunning new restaurant on E. 50th St., puts the magic back in Midtown East.

A Deco-inspired, pastel playground for adult eaters that was only recently the drab-brown and tired Maloney & Porcelli, the bustling brasserie’s pretty, pink-and-blue palette and high-energy American menu have been luring in even the most committed downtown types.

Managing partner Simon Oren’s French and Middle Eastern empire stretches from Park Ave. South to the Upper West Side, where he opened the bright, modern Israeli Dagon last year — at that time, easily the best new restaurant to debut in NYC since the beginning of the pandemic.

Monterey, with 250 seats on two levels, marks Oren’s bold debut in East Midtown, which lost more office workers to the lockdowns than any other commercial district in Manhattan.

The restaurant’s unexpected look and vibe have delighted customers since it opened last month.